After reading Fay Maschler's surprisngly flattering review of Dabbous, I was pretty sure I wanted to give the restaurant a try- after all, how often does the notoriously, shall we say 'observant' Ms Maschler give restaurants five stars out of five? It was only after perusing the menu online (nothing like bit of menu porn on a quiet afternoon), that I declared that I absolutely must visit. I'm almost ashamed to say it, but it was the prices that swung it. £24 for four-course set lunch menu. In central London. In a restaurant helmed by an alumnus of The Fat Duck, Noma and NYC's wd-50 (Ollie Dabbous,...